Derma Roller for Beard Growth: Does It Really Work?

Derma rollers (also known as Beard Rollers) enhance beard growth. Through micro-needling, derma rollers increase collagen production to the skin and can improve circulation.

Improved circulation is partly necessary for proper beard growth, yet it is not the only contributing factor. The biggest question that men have is whether a derma Roller for beard works or not.


Do Derma Rollers Really Work for Beard Growth?

derma rollers for growing beard

This question is interesting because so many factors contribute to beard hair growth and how it comes in. We know that environment, diet, and genetics play strong roles in what type of beard you are predisposed to growing. Some factors, such as environment and diet, you can control. Genetics is a different story.

Beard growth is determined by the amount of dihydrotestosterone (DHT) produced. DHT is a byproduct of testosterone activated by an enzyme located in the follicle’s oil gland. Given these factors alone, one must wonder exactly how a derma roller contributes to hair growth since most indicators appear to be more genetic/hormonal.

Theoretically, the answer to whether it works or not is yes.


How Derma Rollers Work

derma roller

Derma rollers work by enhancing blood circulation and helping with collagen production. They are like other forms of micro-needling used to diminish wrinkles, get rid of acne scarring, and tone down rosacea.

Armed with this knowledge, more companies have been producing beard rollers hoping to capitalize on the same effect for men.

How it works is very simple:

  • Small needles of the derma roller puncture the skin’s surface
  • The body takes note that there has been damage to the skin and starts the process of healing itself.
  • Circulation begins to improve, hormone-rich blood and nutrients go to the beard area. Growth increases.

In addition to testosterone levels, collagen and keratin are also components of facial hair growth. A beard derma roller stimulates the follicles, and hormones (DHT and testosterone) generate growth.

Since circulation is improving, it is logical to assume that natural beard growth will also be enhanced and quickened. Even boar bristle combs have the same effect as beard rollers. The result should be a thicker beard as time progresses.

Micro-needling is also one of the preferred methods in fixing a patchy beard because it stimulates follicle growth. Users have additionally reported that applying minoxidil solutions also improved the effects of micro-needling.

The pros of micro-needling are:

  • Creates rapid growth and can fix a patchy beard
  • Improves blood flow and collagen production, which increases the growth rate
  • Decreases blemishes and wrinkles
  • Revives hair follicles
  • Generates health and smooth skin where it is used
  • Lightens scar tissue

The cons of micro-needling are:

  • The only downside of using a derma roller is the possibility of infection, but you can minimize this using proper cleaning and sanitization.



risks of using derma rollers

Derma rollers are very safe if you select one between .25-.75mm in size, which is the proper size for use at home. If you use anything above that number, you may have side effects as the needle goes deeper into the skin.

Beard rollers are not advisable if you are dealing with acne. The needles will open the wounds and have the potential to become infected. Using micro-needles on this skin type will end up spreading it. Additionally, eczema and psoriasis sufferers should not use it, either.

Side effects of using a Derma roller are as follows:

  • Scar tissue formation
  • Bleeding
  • Bruises
  • Peeling skin
  • Infection
  • Acne getting worse


How to Clean and Sanitize

cleaning derma roller

Cleaning a beard roller is necessary to maintain the product and prevent infection or damage to the skin. The needles themselves are puncturing the top layer of the skin and require sanitation.

To eliminate all harmful bacteria, dip it into alcohol, use ultraviolet sterilization or a sanitizer spray.

Refrain from cleaning the beard roller before micro-needling your beard. You will end up opening the pores to bacteria deep into the skin layers via the punctures that it leaves behind.

It is best to clean it after each use and store it properly by placing it in a dry area such as its box. Seal the box tightly to eliminate dust and dirt from contaminating the roller.

Note that even if you properly sterilize your derma roller, never share it with another individual. The lifetime of a derma roller is two to four months. Replacement is necessary when the needles aren’t sharp enough to penetrate deeply into the skin. Then, they have become dull.


How Often Do I Use a Beard Roller?

Use a derma roller two times weekly to grow facial hair. The skin requires time between applications to heal itself before being punctured again. The ideal time between treatments is three days.

Needle size is also another factor in how you use a derma roller. If the size is .25 mm, then it can be done daily. Should the needle be over 0.5mm, use it twice weekly. Derma rollers that are 0.75mm can only be used once every week for best results.

Using it too frequently may open the skin up for infection as it will not have enough time to heal.


Micro-Needle Length

needle size for a derma roller

The needle size for a derma roller ranges from .25mm-3mm plus. The minimum required size to stimulate circulation is .25mm. However, if you want to reach your follicles and enhance collagen production, you should use needles that are 0.5 to 0.75mm in length.

Length does, however, produce better results, although it has a longer recovery time between uses. Consider needle sizes as this is what goes underneath the skin and produces collagen.

A quick run-down on size is:

  • 0.25mm initiates no pain nor bleeding
  • 0.30 – 0.50mm may be a little painful, and generates a little bleeding
  • 0.75 – 1.0mm is very painful and may initiate excessive bleeding

Needle sizes of 0.25mm are enough to increase circulation to the beard. However, to enable collagen and reach the follicle area, needles need to be 0.50 to 0.75 mm.

While many people think that the number of needles produces the best result, it isn’t true. Beard rollers containing fewer needles tend to be safer because they don’t generate a dragging motion when in use. It causes less skin damage.

Generally, you need 192-540 needles for good beard growth. While fewer needles are considered safer, most men tend to opt for more and have received stellar results.

The drawback of lesser needles is that they may be more painful. In using it, you require more swipes just to penetrate the skin. So, you end up going over the same areas repeatedly and can cause some irritation.


Applied Pressure When Micro-Needling

pressure for micro-needling

Derma rolling doesn’t require excessive pressure to be effective. Place enough pressure on it to keep the needles next to the surface of the skin. When coming to the center of your cheeks, you can increase the pressure slightly. You can also use your tongue to push the roller from the opposite side.

When micro-needling, the process should not be uncomfortable or painful. Even in the absence of pain, the needles are still puncturing the surface of the skin.

Avoid pressing too hard on the derma roller. It may generate cuts and cause you to bleed. We recommend applying beard oil after using a beard roller.


When to Expect Results from Micro-Needling

results of using derma roller

Expect results between four to twelve weeks of regular use. Users will not see a visible improvement overnight. Be patient and consistent to reap any benefits.



Should I Shave Before Using a Beard Roller?

Shaving isn’t necessary before using a derma roller, but if your beard hair is long, some whiskers may become caught in the needles and wheels. So, you may want to exercise extra caution.

You can choose to trim it a bit if this is a concern. However, being clean-shaven isn’t necessary for it to work.


Do Women Grow Beards When They Use Derma Rollers?

No, women will not grow beards while using a derma roller. Women do not have the same hormones that men have. Even though women produce collagen, it won’t cause them to grow whiskers.

While women do have testosterone, they have significantly lower levels of it. Micro-needling is not sufficient to stimulate the growth of a beard.


What’s the Best Derma Roller Size for Beard Growth?

Again, most people use 0.25 to 0.74mm needles for beard growth. What you use is dependent on your goals and how thick your skin is.


Should You Apply a Topical Minoxidil Immediately After Micro-Needling?

Minoxidil should be used every day for morning and evening applications. On one day, skip applying minoxidil and use the beard roller instead. Do not apply minoxidil after using a beard roller as it will burn once applied (it is going into open punctures).

If you use minoxidil, wait for 24 hours after using a beard roller.



Some men who want to grow a thicker, fuller beard use derma rollers. They work by puncturing the pores and alerting the body to heal itself. The body then increases circulation and produces blood-rich testosterone, which increases follicular growth.

The deeper the needle, the better effect it has on the skin. While a lower level will promote growth, it may not stimulate collagen production. While a smaller needle may be less painful, ones that go deeper into the skin tend to have the best results overall.

The most important thing about a derma roller for a beard is to keep it sanitized. Beard rollers do come with minimal risks. However, since it is penetrating the skin, there is potential for bacteria to enter your follicles and cause infection. Regular cleaning prolongs the life of the roller as well.

What size to use depends on what results you wish to achieve. However, using it should never be extremely painful. If it is, you may be using a needle that is going too deep into your skin.

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